Puerto Rico

San Juan Puerto Rico

Westerdam from San Cristobal

Holland America cruise

Westerdam approaching San Juan

Approaching San Juan Puerto Rico, the crew of the Holland America Westerdam opened doors to the bow and balconies on several decks above that normally remain locked.  People flocked onto the bow to watch the boat dock.  Not being one for crowds, I quickly left the bow on deck 4. Instead, I headed for the balcony on deck 6, the same deck as our room, but on the opposite end of the ship.  John wanted to stop by our room to get something for his camera. He said he would meet me there shortly.  I opened the door and stepped outside. Score, I had the balcony to myself.  I watched the castle looming in the distance and the crowd below scrambling to find room to take unobstructed pictures.  The door opened.  No, not John, somebody else.  Oh well plenty of room for them and me.  Where did he go, I wondered, after all he is the one with the telephoto camera.  The door opened again, and once again it wasn’t him.

San Juan Puerto Rico

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

I had to zoom my little pocket camera to the best of its ability and take pictures of the old fort castle myself.

Finally John showed up.  He got lost trying to find his way to the end of the hallway that leads to the bow.  I’d laugh if I hadn’t been lost at sea without ever leaving port myself.

The ship passed the castle and found its way into the dock at the port, amidst a mix of old and new buildings and construction of some sort going on right next to the dock.  We had no shore excursions planned for this port.  Sometimes we like to just get off the boat and see what we find. This time we decided to follow the blue brick road.  Spanish ships of the 1800’s used furnace slag as

San Juan Puerto Rico

Blue Brick Road

ship’s ballast. Island settlers made good use of the blue brick cobblestones the ships left behind. Called adoquin, the blue bricks worked well for ready-made paving material. Modern cars have some difficulty maneuvering on these narrow streets intended for horse and buggy use. They often ride over the curb while turning corners.  Sadly some of the blue streets have been paved over.  We saw people working on one street, widening it and repaving.  The city will lose some of its old world charm if all the blue streets

Puerto Rico

Castillo San Cristobal

eventually get paved over.

The road led us to Castillo San Cristobal, one of the two major old forts, or castles in old San Juan.  For a very small fee, we went inside for a tour.  It is self-guided, but they do provide a map.

San Juan Puerto rico

garita

500 years ago, people built things to last. For all its crumbly appearance, most of the old fort is actually quite solid.  It was a bit hot and muggy the day we were there, but inside the garitas, or look-out towers, a refreshingly cool sea breeze blew through.  Nature’s air conditioning, making the temperature quite pleasant.  The tower guards of yesteryear must have appreciated that.

Before we even got inside the castle, we noticed an iguana peeking

San Juan Puerto rico

iguana lawn mower

over the wall from up above.  After going inside, we went upstairs and found a whole lawn full of iguanas.  A man who worked there said they are not native, but descendants of pets people turned loose.  They let them stay because they are good lawn mowers and save time and money on maintenance.  They also make a great tourist attraction, and don’t seem to mind posing for cameras.

San Juan Puerto Rico

Archways at el Morro

After touring San Cristobal, we set off to see Castillo San Felipe del Morro, otherwise known as El Morro. That was the castle we saw from the ship on the approach to old San Juan. We hadn’t gone far when the free trolley came by.  We hopped on, glad for the ride, though on a cooler

San Juan Puerto Rico

cemetery with Ponce de Leon’s grave

day the walk would have been pleasant.  Before going in, we paused for a look at the cemetery. Ponce de Leon‘s tomb is in the cathedral there.

The U.S. National Park service manages the old forts as national historic sites. They have a discount price for visiting both castles, and since we managed to dig up the receipt from the first one we only had to pay the difference and not the full price to see the second one.  El Morro had a wide open space with many

San Juan, Puerto Rico

cannon at El Morro

archways painted yellow and a long stairway down to a plaza overlooking the sea.  Waves crashed against the rocks in a frenzy of wild surf at the bottom of the sea wall.  An old cannon still pointed toward the sea, with no ammunition against threats of the distant past.  We did see cannon balls fused into a giant pile at the other fort though.

colorful houses of old San Juan

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

We walked back to the ship from el Morro.  We saw lots of brightly colored houses along the blue brick streets.  John had fun taking pictures of interesting doorways, many of which had cats sleeping in front of them.  People of San Juan seemed to like cats a

San Juan, Puerto Rico

Cat in the Doorway

lot, we even saw a group of people herding a large black cat that must have strayed too far from home.  Some places had doors made of iron bars instead of solid wooden doors.  The cats there went in and out as they pleased.  We saw lots of other unique things on the way back, cat-shaped iron chairs, parts of the wall that once surrounded the entire city, and a park taken over by a flock of pigeons.  We found horse carriage rides too.

San Juan Puerto Rico

cat chairs

San Juan Puerto Rico

Horse Carriage Rides

San Juan Puerto Rico

el Morro

More Blogs About Puerto Rico

Bicycling in Old San Juan
Cats of Old San Juan
In Search of Cats
Paseo de la Princessa and Diving Pelicans
Staying in Puerto Rico

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High Tea on the High Sea

Holland America Westerdam

Westerdam in the Caribbean

Tea, not just a drink, but an English Tradition.  Well European

Vista Dining room, Holland America Westerdam

Peeking in at the High Tea Display

tradition, I suppose since this is HOLLAND America, not England America.

A windmill sculpted in ice greeted passengers on the approach to the high tea on the Westerdam.  Luckily, the sea had calmed down a bit and the ship stayed flat, or it would have been high tea on the really really high sea. Probably would have been more than a bit messy too.  Earlier the boat rocked enough to slosh people in the pool from one side to the other, much to their delight.  A genuine wave pool.  But that having nothing to do with tea, I shall move on.

edible flowers

flowers or vegetables?

A crowd began to gather in front of the dining room, waiting for the doors to open in anticipation of High Tea.  Through the glass we could see the fancy display of delicacies amidst decorations made of food.  What to do until the doors opened? Other people stood patiently waiting.  But that’s other people, I generally have no patience for waiting.  So what did I do?  Got out my camera of course.  Within minutes an army of cameras joined mine, though mostly taking pictures though the glass, while my tiny Casio pocket camera fit nicely into the spaces between glass panels.  I did see one or two other people try to copy my technique, but they were lucky if they could get the lens in the open space.  There is definitely something to be said for tiny cameras.

Finally a crew member dressed all in white opened the door.  People flowed through in orderly fashion.  Not too quickly, lines move a bit slow in the early days of a cruise as passengers are not allowed to serve themselves for the first few days to halt the spread of any germs they may have boarded with.

watermelon on a pole

Watermelon Swan

Delicately carved watermelons atop poles, and bouquets of sugar flowers adorned tables overflowing with numerous fancy treats.  What to pick?  I tried a cucumber sandwich, about as traditional a tea treat as I have ever heard of.  A cream puff swan and tiny chocolate cake joined the sandwich.  What is that hollowed out flakey biscuit thing?  Does the soup go in it?  Yes, OK I’ll try one of those.  I might have been a bit greedier if it was serve yourself, but that seemed like enough for point at the food you want and somebody puts it on your plate service.  A good way to keep from putting on those extra cruise ship pounds as well as halt the spread of germs I think.

One nice thing about this cruise, group seating prevents dining

afternoon tea

dining companion

alone.  Apparently John wasn’t the only absent husband, having chosen poker over tea.  I sat with several other women and we all had a nice chat with our tea.

“How drunk everyone looked this morning staggering around trying to walk on the rocking boat.”

“It was impossible to walk a straight line, I even saw someone bounce off the wall.”

“At least we finally left port.”

“This morning when the water was so rough there were a few people wishing we hadn’t.”

“Better stuck at the dock than adrift like the Carnival Splendor.”

“Those people were well compensated though.”

“We are supposed to get some sort of compensation for the late start and missed port too.”

We pulled the large chunks of butter out of our sandwiches and ate the rest.  The biscuity thing tasted pretty good too.

food for tea

mmmm

High Tea on the High Sea, a pleasant way to pass an afternoon on the ship.  Later in the cruise they had some specialty teas, including the ever popular cupcake tea.  With so many other things going on, this turned out to be the only tea I made it to.  Better for the waistline that way I guess.  The comic who joked about cruise ship passengers having 14 meals a day was probably not all that far off for some people.  The seemingly endless food options is definitely one of the things most people enjoy about cruises.



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Coconut Lime Muffins

Safari Quest of American Safari Cruises

Safari Quest in LaConte Fjord, Alaska

In September of 2010 we took a wonderful small-ship Alaskan adventure cruise.  We hiked in the wilderness, walked on a glacier, saw a fjord full of ice bergs, and kayaked in serene waters. Every morning on  our Alaskan wilderness cruise on theSafari Quest, breakfast included an option of fresh baked muffins.  The variety changed daily.  One morning we had coconut lime muffins.  At least the early breakfast eaters did.  Those tasted so good and were so popular I doubt there were any left for the stragglers.  People liked those muffins so much we all talked about them for the rest of the cruise.  Word must have gotten back to the chef because on the last day we had coconut chocolate chip muffins.  I should have liked those even better.  Coconut and chocolate are my two most favorite flavors.  I know for a fact at least one person did like those better because he said so.  But for some reason I was just hooked on the coconut lime, best muffins I ever tasted.  Not having been brilliant enough to ask for the recipe, I’ve just thought about how wonderful they tasted off and on since the cruise.  Then one day we had some overripe bananas and I didn’t feel like making banana bread.  I tried making banana muffins instead.  And discovered that making muffins from scratch without a box of muffin mix is actually quite easy.  So I tried adapting a basic plain muffin recipe into a coconut lime muffin recipe.  The first batch tasted a bit too limey so I made a few adjustments and the second one came out quite well I thought.  So I decided to share my recipe.  I’ve updated the recipe a bit since the first posting and they are better than ever now.  Especially if you use heaping cups on the coconut, canola oil and sugar, and beat the egg with a touch of milk.  For our lactose intolerant friends, this recipe also happens to be dairy free.

coconut lime muffins

Coconut Lime Muffins

2 cups flour

1/3 cup sugar

3 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup shredded coconut

1/2 teaspoon lime zest

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 beaten egg

1/3 cup lime juice

3/4 cup coconut milk

1/3 cup canola oil

Line a cupcake pan with 12 cupcake papers and preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Stir the first 6 ingredients together in a bowl.

Add the next 5 ingredients and stir with a spoon just until dry ingredients are moistened.  Never overmix muffins, they don’t rise if you do.  Spoon batter into the 12 prepared muffin cups.  If a toasted coconut top is desired, sprinkle tops with coconut before baking.

Bake 15-20 minutes at 400 degrees.

coconut lime muffin

Yum!

Copyright 2011 My Cruise Stories

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