Bridal Track Coastal Walk
Following a rather bouncy tender ride to shore, a couple small busses waited to take our group on a shore excursion from Holland America Noordam up a steep hill to the entrance of Norfolk Island National Park. We were met there by our guide, Lilly, her dog Bella, and her helper whose name I don’t remember. Bella was by far the most popular member of the group. She looked like a somewhat overweight yellow lab. Norfolk Island belongs to Australia though it is located 877 miles (1,412 km) from mainland Australia and is not geographically part of the same continent.
We didn’t get far along the trail before coming to a shoe cleaning station. They don’t want foreign contamination in their forest so you first run your shoe through a set of brushes that clean the bottom and both sides, then step into a shallow pool of disinfectant.
The needled evergreen trees there are Norfolk Pines, something that is a miniature tree in a pot people have as a houseplant back home, but are giant forest trees in their natural habitat. There were some young ones of houseplant size though. There were also some fern trees reminiscent of ones we have seen previously in Australia’s Blue Mountains, a prehistoric sort of tree leftover from dinosaur days. Norfolk Island has its own endemic species of fern tree said to be the tallest in the world as well as a second less common species of fern tree more closely related to the ones on the Australian mainland.
Along the way the guide sometimes stopped to talk about the fauna and flora of the island. There are no native mammals, or any of the marsupials that mainland Australia is famous for either. There are however invasive rats and mice that are hard on the native bird population. Birds are what they have for wildlife, birds and insects. No reptiles either and no poisonous spiders. Some of the birds are native and some are not. There are also feral cats that wreak havoc on some of the bird populations. The worst mess was from feral pigs that once roamed the island in great numbers having been left behind by humans and then multiplying, but those are no longer there. They have not had such luck removing the rats, though there were quite a number of rat bait stations along the pathway.
Their apex predator is a small owl that was once so close to extinction they had just one female left. An imported male has brought the population up, but now they are hybrid rather than pure and the gene pool is small. The native parakeet was also down to just a few breeding pairs, but has come a long way towards recovery now. The owl is more likely to eat small songbirds than to help control the mice, and it’s probably too small to eat the rats. The songbirds are also threatened by rats and cats so the comeback of the owl is not so good for them. Islanders are divided on whether bringing back too many owls is a good thing or a bad thing because of them being one more predator for also threatened small songbird species. The owls are of course a natural predator to those other birds where rats and cats are not.
The hike took us mainly through the forest, but there were some bits along the coast out in the sun. We had some distant views of our ship from several places at the coast. There were some broadleaf trees and other plants native to the area, and some with long skinny leaves. Some of the Norfolk pines were huge with massive trunks. Though the forest looked as if it had always been there, a lot of the plants were actually relatively recent restoration plantings of native plants because the feral pigs that once overran the island rooted up much of the native vegetation. Some of the plants along the coast are an invasive species from Africa.
The hike of just over 3 kilometers took over an hour. Partly because of several stops with short talks about the area’s flora and fauna, and partly because of waiting for slow people to catch up. Some just walked slow and others were slowed down by their poor choice in footwear. You would think people who booked a hike through a forest would have sense enough not to wear sandals or flip-flops, but there were people with no common sense wearing each.
The hike took us up and down several hills, often steep with a loose gravel path. Good hiking shoes were mentioned in the instructions for that tour as well as bringing water to drink since none was provided. Parts of the hills had railings or ropes to hang onto, but very few people did and some of them slipped on the gravel with one taking a fall, though luckily he did not get hurt. After seeing the same guy slip several more times I did suggest to him that if he turned his feet out and walked like a duck it would give him more stability and he didn’t slip so much after that.
Speaking of falls, on the tender returning to the ship one lady who was at the back of her section of the tender got up to try and zip off before everyone else when the crew had their backs turned to her while directing a different area to disembark first. Even if they had been at her section she should have been last since the people at the front would have been directed off before her. The boat rocked and pitched her off her feet, up into the air, and right over since she hadn’t held onto anything. Then of course the crew had to stop unloading anyone else and help her up and off of the tender, stuffing up the whole unloading process for everyone else. This was not someone from the hike, just a random self-centered passenger that happened to be on the same tender back to the ship. Typical behavior of many passengers on this cruise.
Back to the hike, we eventually came out to a lookout area by the sea at the site where Captain Cook came ashore. Pretty much everywhere we went on this cruise had some sort of Captain Cook monument. He really got around. Up on the hillside there was (of course) a monument, and a picnic area with a restroom and parking lot. The busses picked us up there. While we were waiting for the busses to arrive the guides gave a talk about the island’s history, which is also the history of their ancestors. Much of the island’s population are descendants of the mutineers from the Bounty and Tahitian women who all came to Norfolk Island after leaving Pitcairn Island where the mutineers first lived. The guides said that the movie Mutiny on the Bounty is a romanticized version of events that does not give the Tahitians credit where credit is due as they are the ones who would have known where to find Norfolk Island, and that the Tahitian women were the ones who did all the work once they got there. And that those women likely did not actually join the mutineers of their own free will, but were rather probably either tricked into it or kidnapped. Our guides seemed quite proud of their Tahitian ancestors, but the far more famous mutineers not so much.
The bus went through the town of Kingston on the way back, stopping at the shuttle stop where the shuttles to town from the port go so anyone wanting to walk around town could get off. All but 4 people did. Our bus was at the back of a line of other busses picking up and dropping off people at the shuttle stop.
Although we were early from the time given as to how long our excursion would take one lady who was still on the bus started loudly complaining to the driver that she needed to get back to the dock and meet her husband who had been on another excursion and was probably already there. The driver explained that he would go back as soon as our bus reached the front of the que and loaded on some of the people waiting there for a ride back to the dock. Then she asked about getting on a different bus, to which he said she was welcome to do so, but would have to go to the back of the line of people out in the shuttle stop waiting. Not willing to do that she whinged so much he ended up going around the other 3 busses that were still in front of us in the que and taking just the 4 of us back to the dock without loading on any of the other people there that were waiting to go back. Poor driver was probably afraid to tell her to either shut up or get off the bus, but giving in meant her selfish rudeness was rewarded at the expense of a bunch of other people waiting for a ride back to the dock. This ship seemed to have had more than its share of people who think the world revolves around them. Quite unlike the Norfolk islanders who were all friendly and helpful.






































































































































