Approaching the port in Nuku’alofa on the island of Tongatapu in Tonga on Holland America Noordam, we saw a pilot boat keeping pace with us for awhile. Whether the same boat had dropped off our pilot or not I don’t know, but eventually a somewhat distant cargo ship going the other direction came much closer and the pilot boat either picked up or dropped off a pilot there. Soon a red tugboat appeared to guide us into port. The ship backed up for a bit, spun a few circles, then remained relatively stationary for quite some time. Waiting to clear customs or for permission to dock or something. Only the people in control of the ship and port knew for sure.
After watching our ship take an excruciatingly long time slowly inching into the dock, it took quite a while to get it tied up there as well. Finally all was done and the gangway popped out from the side of the ship so people could get off. Of course even as they had announced not to clog up the elevators and stairways to the gangway as the ship was docking there were people who think the rules don’t apply to them headed there. The cruise director repeatedly announced for people to go wait in public areas away from the stairways and elevators, but that never stops the me-first-I’m-more-important-than-everyone-else crowd. This cruise seemed to have more than its share of entitled people.
We waited a bit to go down to the gangway after the announcement saying people could get off the ship and by that time there was no line. We had no plans for this port so were hoping to find a last-minute tour. Most of the booths along the pier were selling the sort of things made from materials that have some restrictions and require declarations when passing through customs in both Australia and New Zealand so that probably hampered their sales since all the passengers were disembarking in either Australia or New Zealand. Lots of shells or things made from shells, wood, and other natural products. There were some things like t-shirts and such that would not have any customs issues, but they were quite overpriced.
One booth was labeled tourist information. They had maps, brochures, and signs for a bus tour and a diving tour. Farther up the way a sign pointing into a large gravel lot said lava tour this way, but we did not go that way to see what it was all about. Down near the end of the walkway there were all sorts of people offering last minute island tours. In USD for a bus of 39 people it was $35 per person. In a 6-8 person van or 17 person mini-bus it was $50 each, or for a private taxi tour $150 total for the tour, which for 2 people came out to $75 each. The cruise ship’s bus tour shore excursion around the island at this port was $70 per person so for nearly the same price we got a private tour, opting for the taxi since it would leave right away and all of the others would stay and wait for more people to show up before they would leave – plus with the private tour we could take whatever time we wanted at each stop without worrying about what anybody else was doing, and it could stop in places where a larger group couldn’t go.
First we went to a tree called the 3-headed coconut. It even has its own sign next to the tree. It’s a very unique coconut palm that branches out into 3 tops instead of the usual one top on a palm tree. The driver said it is the only one in the south pacific like that, and that it naturally grew that way rather than as a result of damage.
Next we went to the Mapu’a Vaea Blowholes. The name means whistle of the noble. Other than locals with booths set up to sell their wares, we were the only ones there, having arrived before any of the other tours left the pier. There were several blowholes of varying sizes right there, and more visible up and down the coast. They did not all go off at the same time. Sometimes they just made a little splash, but with a big enough wave the splash would get quite large.
As was the case by the blowholes, a lot of the shoreline that we saw on Tongatapu had a bit of shallow water at the shoreline, with a sudden dropoff at the edge of a coral shelf. Waves crashing into that feature created the blowholes along that shoreline.
At some point we drove past the old royal palace, which the driver pointed out as we went by, but we didn’t stop there. The current royal palace is in the capitol city where the ship docked.
We stopped by a Captain Cook monument, commemorating his landing site on the island. Captain Cook seems to have been everywhere. We saw monuments to him everywhere we went from Hawaii to Australia. That monument was just a small roadside attraction, but every tourist bus, car, or van that went by stopped there so it was pretty crowded.
The best stop on the tour was Anahulu Cave. I’m sure no cruise ship bus would ever go there. Especially not from this cruise. On the Noordam they closed the lowest level of the glass stairway to the Atrium because 4 people fell down it the first week of the cruise. It’s an old ship and people have used that stairway for many years, but the ones on our cruise couldn’t handle it. Those sorts of people would never make it through a cave full of uneven ground and stairs of different lengths and depths both in and on the way to the cave. Good thing we were not on a cruise ship tour. I love caves and was very happy to see this one.
At the entrance we first had to go down a stairway carved into a bit of a hill and then duck down to go through a short tunnel of rock to get inside the cave as it was only a few feet tall there. Once fully inside the ceiling opened up way above our heads where even the tallest person could stand up fully and still have a vast amount of space above their head. That entryway alone would be enough to keep the cruise ship tours out, not to mention steep and narrow pathways winding their way through the cave.
The cave had a few low-level lights so people could find their way through, but not so bright as to ruin the effect. We were the only ones in the cave the whole time we were there, though a couple people had just left the cave and were headed to the nearby beach when we first arrived. Another advantage of taking a private tour.
We could hear bats in the biggest room of the cave. Sometimes one would fly around, but they were too small and too fast to catch with the camera. The numerous stalactites, stalagmites, and other cave formations were stationary though so we could take pictures of them.
After some ups and downs and twists and turns along the narrow pathway through the cave we reached a stairway into a deep blue pool. The taxi driver had mentioned that swimming in the cave was allowed. It looked like it would be fun to snorkel there and see what was under the water, but we were not dressed for swimming and had no snorkel gear with us so we just admired the pool from the path. We did not test the water temperature, but considering it was in a cave it was likely on the chilly side.
A trail veering off from the one to the cave entrance led to a nearby little beach which had a pretty cove. It looked like the shallow part by the shore probably went out to the edge of a shelf and then dropped off deeper just like at the blowholes only without such a big splash, but we weren’t wearing anything we wanted to get wet and did not investigate that.
Part of the drive took us along the shore where coral restoration is in progress. The road ran close to the water there and lots of little pathways led from the edge of the shore out into the water and then stopped.
Last we went to see an ancient monument called Ha’amonga, which is easier to remember as humongous. That works since it is quite large. It’s been there since around 1200 and is said have been built either for an ancient king as a gateway to his palace or for astrological purposes. It is constructed from 3 slabs of coral limestone. Each slab weighs 30 to 40 tons. In the local language the structure’s name means Maui’s Burden, due to the belief that as the stones are too heavy for a human to handle the monument was built by the god Maui. How it was built and the actual purpose remain a mystery. It was in a small roadside nature reserve with mostly grass, some trees, and other small stone monuments.




























































































































































