Marksburg Castle is one of many castles along the middle Rhine River. Some are intact, some ruins. Many were once destroyed, but have now been restored. Some currently operate as hotels. Marksburg is a museum. A visit there was the included shore excursion on Viking Skirner for the port stop at Koblenz, though the castle was a separate stop from the city.
Viking Skirnir stopped briefly about an hour’s sailing or half hour drive away from Koblenz to drop passengers off for a bus ride up the hill to tour Marksburg Castle at the top. While we were there it sailed on to Koblenz where the bus brought us after the tour.
Marksburg Castle is well preserved for a medieval castle. Perched high on top of a hill it overlooks the town of Braubach in Germany. It is one of the main attractions of the Rhine Gorge UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s one of only 2 castles in that area never to have been destroyed prior to or during the Napoleonic era (the other is Maus). Marksburg is the only one not to have ever fallen into a major state of disrepair.
The castle started as a stone keep around 1100 and expanded into a castle by 1117 both for protection of the town of Braubach and for reinforcement of customs collection. It was used as a protective fortress rather than a royal residence.
Throughout the centuries the castle changed hands numerous times with different counts rebuilding and expanding the castle. As it is now a museum, one of the first things you see is a display of a series of different coats of arms of previous castle owners hanging on a wall near where the tour begins.
In 1900 it became the property of the German Castles Association, founded only a year prior to preserve historic castles in Germany. It was damaged by American Artillery from across the river in 1945. Damage was repaired by 1961, but it took until 1980 to finish restoration of all of the roofs.
Entrance through the castle’s locked doors is allowed only when accompanied by a tour guide. As we were warned prior to the tour, some areas have quite rough and uneven ground and the castle contains some very steep and narrow stairways. Starting from the restaurant and gift shop area there’s a little walk through a narrow corridor before starting the castle tour. Restrooms inside the gift shop area had a charge to use, but there are some outside at the end of the corridor past the gateway into the castle tour that were free.
After passing through the locked gate people venture into the area with the coat-of-arms display. The castle entry from there is through a gate where knights once rode in on horseback. The ground is slate, which is what the rock the castle sits on is made of. It’s roughly worn through centuries of hooves and water.
What was once a ramp for horses to travel up eventually had stairs carved into it. Those now too are very weathered and worn.
Off to one side of the entry there’s a smithy where blacksmiths once shoed horses and crafted amour.
Inside the castle the floors are much flatter in the rooms. Some stairways are not much different than modern ones while others are extremely narrow and steep or have higher steps than people of our era are accustomed to. The tall tower of the castle was used for a variety of things including a high place for keeping an eye out for any approaching enemies and as a keep for the castle owners to hole up in during an attack.
Castles along the Rhine weren’t the homes of kings or emperors, but rather mainly of river barons who charged a fee to anyone wishing to pass by on the river. They had chains they could pull up across the river to prevent passage of anyone who didn’t pay. Before the system of many locks that now assist boats up and down as the river changes altitude, chains were also sometimes needed along with tugboats to pull barges upstream before steam engines were invented. People back then had to rely on the natural flow of the river and only travel when there was sufficient water levels. All of the many locks haven’t actually completely changed that as river cruises sometimes can’t make it through all or part of their scheduled route if the water levels are too high to fit under the bridges or too low to float the boat.
Inside the castle there are furnishings in some of the rooms. There are two long tables surrounded in chairs, one down in the kitchen area where servants ate and one on a higher floor for the owners and their guests.
The kitchen area has displays of dishes, a cooking area over a fireplace, and of items used in the daily lives of medieval kitchen staff.
Up on a level above the one with the kitchen there are furnishings for the family of the castle including a bed too tiny to lay down in. People of the time believed lying down to be a death pose so the nobility did not fully lay down to sleep. They didn’t care so much whether the lesser folk survived though so they slept lying on straw mats.
One room was full of a variety of devices for torture and punishment. People accused of wrongdoing had to confess before they could be punished, but since confession would be tortured out of them whether they were guilty or not they had the option of just taking the punishment or being tortured and then punished. Though the death penalty was an option by hanging for the common folk or beheading for the nobility, it was rare in that region due to a population too sparse to dispose of the needed workers without just cause. Some of the punishment devices were made for shaming them like one that fit over their head and tongue for liars making them unable to talk while paraded through town for others to throw things at them or spit on them. Other devices were a lot more physically painful.
Another room had a display of armor and knights through the ages starting with a roman soldier with not much more than a helmet and vest from around 400 BC, working through the ages around the room as each figure was more heavily armored than the last up to the final knight from the 1400’s. There was one more figure after that – a musketeer from the 1600’s who stood completely unarmored with a gun in hand. One of the suits of armor was for jousting rather than fighting and conquering. It had a hook that folded down from the front where the knight could lay his lance as he galloped toward the competition.
This castle even sported 4 indoor bathrooms, though only 1 of them was on the tour. Their bathroom was a wooden outcropping high on the castle wall where the occupant could sit to do their business while it all dropped to the ground below. That particular bathroom hung above what is now a garden, but at the time the castle was in use it was a guard’s walk where those on lookout duty could patrol. There was a great view of the valley and surrounding area from that walkway, but besides being on the lookout for any danger from below anyone patrolling there probably had to be careful to avoid the spot where they needed to watch out for what might come from above as well. The toilet room was kept locked at night to keep any intruders from entering that way. Though this particular castle was never sacked, others were conquered be entry through the privy.
The tour ends where it starts, back at the gift shop and restaurant.
Anywhere where you can see beyond the castle walls there’s a great view of the river and surrounding area.








































































































































































