Prior to our Zaandam Alaska cruise, John booked a fishing excursion in Ketchikan and I booked one called Rain Forest Canoe & Nature Trail. John booked this cruise on a whim because he was missing Alaska after having spent a dozen summers working as a fishing guide for a lodge there. On the ship’s fishing excursion he’d be on the other side as the customer with someone else as a guide. Apparently most cruisers aren’t into fishing though because just like most other cruise ship fishing excursions he’s booked in the past, this one got cancelled for not enough people booking it. Finding fishing charters from other sources doesn’t necessarily work with cruises either since their timing may not coincide with the ship’s time in port, as was the case with this one.
Unlike Juneau where the shore excursion staff didn’t notify anyone of cancelled excursions and we found out our sea kayaking had been cancelled when going out to check in for it, he was sent a notice the day prior for the fishing excursion cancellation so he booked the one I was on instead. In Juneau we ended up doing a whale watching tour from the only last-minute excursion booth still open by the time we found out our kayaking had been cancelled. Every single one of the 17 people on that tour was from an excursion that had gotten cancelled without notification just like ours, though most of theirs had involved flying in either a seaplane or helicopter which were cancelled due to weather. We were told the Juneau kayaking one was cancelled for rough seas but the whale watching boat left from the same port where the kayaks were and it was calm there.
This was the rainiest Alaskan cruise either of us has ever taken, with rain at every port and most of our time at sea as well. It did clear up near the glacier on the day we went to Endicott Arm, with the sun actually making an appearance at the glacier, but other than that it pretty much rained the whole time we were in Alaska other than a sun break in Carcross, Yukon during an otherwise rainy excursion.
Check-in for this excursion was about an hour after arrival in port. We went out a bit early and had we not had rain gear on just walking to the closest gift shop on the pier would have left us drenched to the skin. This excursion was definitely a good test for my rain gear, and it passed. The raincoat was one that I bought at the gift shop on the ship because they were having a 75% off of everything Alaska related sale. Not that people couldn’t use a good raincoat at other destinations, but they were part of the sale anyway, and much better than the one I brought from home. We still got to the check-in a bit early after checking out the gift shop so we waited under the overhang on the side of the visitor’s center because the covered area by the front door was already full of other people staying out of the rain while waiting for their excursions.
The large canoe holds around 30 people and they need at least 6 to run the excursion because any less wouldn’t be enough to paddle it. We had 6 people from the Zaandam, and one came over from the Grand Princess since she was the only one on her ship to sign up for that excursion so we ended up with 7 people – plus the guide for the canoe made 8. The Grand Princess left Vancouver with us and was at all of our port stops. The excursion to the Yukon we took in Skagway had people from the princess ship on it too.
We were taken up to a lake in the woods in a van on roads that were paved at the start of the ride up there and gravel closer to the lake, with plenty of potholes either way, though the van driver did his best to avoid as many as possible. The lake was called Harriet Hunt Lake, named after the person who ended prostitution in Ketchikan. Dolly of Ketchikan’s Dolly’s House Museum fame probably didn’t like Harriet Hunt at all. Prostitution was banned in Ketchikan in 1953 and Dolly’s house shut down in 1954. Dolly died in a nursing home in Sitka in 1975.
When we first got out of the van the guide showed us a giant mushroom she had found. One of the red poisonous sort that looks like it would make a good smurf house. Amanita Muscaria it’s called. It’s hallucinogenic so some people make a tea out of them or eat dried ones, but an overdose can be deadly because they do contain toxins. There was a large selection of mushrooms as a centerpiece for the snacks table at our canoe destination so our guide wasn’t the only one working that excursion who had a fascination with mushrooms.
While we were still in the parking lot waiting for paddles, life jackets, and for those who didn’t have their own, raincoats to be passed out a whole bunch of jeeps came down around the end of the cul-de-sac where the lake was, and then back up the hill a bit parking in front of the van we came in. They were from another excursion involving driving jeeps on mountain trails as well as the canoes. They had twice as many people as we did. While just a couple of our group opted for the excursion raincoats, nearly all of the jeep people wore them so they almost all matched in their canoe full of people while we were a mis-matched lot in a less-than-half-full canoe. I was very glad I had my own rain gear because by the time they got around to handing out the raincoats anyone who hadn’t already been soaked before they got into the van would have been pretty wet by then.
The bottom of the canoe was full of too much water for anyone to totally keep their feet out of and I didn’t have boots so my feet got pretty wet even though I kept them out of the puddle as much as possible. At least I had wool socks. Wool keeps you warm even when it gets wet.
The guide aimed us toward a dock a down the lake a bit from where we started. Along the way we saw what looked like people stuck near the shore in an unmoving jumble, but our guide said they were moving a dock that they weren’t using. Paddling a dock across a lake with a couple canoes is pretty slow going so it didn’t look like they were moving, but they were gone by the time we went back so they did eventually get to their destination.
We beat the jeep people to the dock. We did have a bit of a head start, but also a whole lot less people to paddle the canoe. There was room at the dock for both oversized canoes to tie up. A stairway and boardwalk led to a covered platform in the woods with a table and a firepit area with a fire going. The camp cook who was already there and working had some snacks on the table and chowder, hot chocolate, and coffee on the fire.
A little field mouse huddled near a split bit of log next to the fire. The camp cook said he’d found it in the garbage can. The mouse was not looking to good at first, a shivering little unmoving ball of fur. It looked injured or ill, but was apparently just really cold because after it warmed up it scurried around pretty fast and looking quite fine when the log it was hiding behind got moved. It nibbled on a goldfish cracker someone gave it, then took a few more down through a hole in the wooden platform, presumably to its nest. It came and went a few more times before disappearing for good. That was the only wildlife we saw there. It was a cute little mouse.
After snack time the jeep people who were on a tighter schedule than us took a walk on the boardwalk trail into the woods while our guide told stories of local lore and some of her past adventures while waiting in hopes the rain let up a bit before we went for our rainforest walk. The jeep people came back from their walk and left to paddle their way back to the jeeps. Eventually the rain slowed down some so we took our rainforest walk.
The trail there is all boardwalk through muskeg which she said a person can sink into like quicksand if stepping in the wrong spot, though she did often leave the trail to talk about various things in places where the ground was solid. In some spots there was just water alongside the trail on both sides. It had some bridges crossing over tiny to small creeks.
The vegetation seemed to mainly consist of skunk cabbage, hemlock, spruce, and ferns, though there were other plants including huckleberry bushes. The excursion blurb mentioned carnivorous sundew plants, but we were not shown any. There were a lot trees with fungus growing on their trunks, some of the trees still living and others not. Many of the trees had roots way above the ground where the nurse tree they had grown in had rotted away leaving a root cave under the tree. The biggest tree was about an 800-year-old spruce which was huge, living, and had a much smaller tree growing on top of a giant root sticking out of its trunk. Clover the guide said the little tree was an offspring of the big one and symbiotic in that they would share nutrients with each other as needed.
The rain stopped shortly after we got back from our walk so we had a dry time paddling back to the dock we had started from. Well dry from above anyway. The puddle in the bottom of the canoe had grown considerably deeper than the already giant puddle it had been at the start so not really any dry place for feet.
Like most things this excursion would have been better on a nice day, but on trips like this one if you don’t do anything in the rain you won’t do anything at all so good rain gear really helps. For that excursion some good leak-proof rain boots also would have been useful. We still had fun anyway, even with all the rain.



















































































































































